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Post by ronny on Jun 20, 2014 18:22:59 GMT
Right guys, I've never done stick floating before and I intend to research it but sometimes research isn't enough, that's where help and tips off experienced stick anglers comes in, so my plea is for some guidance Info I'm looking for is general use of the stick float, float types and what float for what flow, shotting patterns for types of flow, do u plump up? Etc I'm gonna stickie this thread just for others to help get some guidance and tips
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Post by Stevie on Jun 20, 2014 18:35:59 GMT
The most commonly shot patterns ronny are the shirt button which is just spreading your shot out evenly a long the line so that it sinks slowly or bulk shotting it on the line together which sinks quicker there for getting to the bottom guicker for the bigger fish hope thats helps sir ronny lol
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Post by Mick on Jun 20, 2014 18:36:51 GMT
Jimlads ya man but as a general float a wire stem will see you through most situations even though its best suited to pacey broiling water obvs a chubber float is what it says and can take a lot of shot as much as 4 swan so you can get down on the deck quick and fish big bait like lobs for those bigger fish, plumbing is a bit of a minefield really as most rivers vary in depth within a matter of yards sometimes from 6ft to 1ft, i find if i'm dragging bottom by a inch that ok for me, it will slow the run just enough and if it does go into a deeper run it should hopefully be not to far of bottom, shirt button for your shotting wont see you far wrong but tbh its a bit of a how longs a piece of string question, with the stick its more where what and why when your on the bank
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2014 19:03:39 GMT
I wrote out an extra long piece and it disappeared. Annoying. Anyway. - float type - wire stem for heavy flow, lignum or came for steady flow. Full bodied allows you to ride the force of a heavy flow. Larger avon if you are really going long distance. A small stick float is great for near bank work, whereas a lignum body and shouldered design is excellent for mid to far bank work as it allows you to cast to the far bank and hold the float back, without dragging it back towards you. A large dome top is good in really shallow fast stuff. Use a float which takes 1 no. 4 (or 0.2g) for every foot in steady water, or 2 no. 4 (0.4g) for every foot in heavy stuff. - shotting - shirt button style when fishing steady ish water, no. 8 or 10 near the hook, no. 6 then no. 4s. In heavy stuff, you want to load the shot near the hook otherwise the bait won't get down. - casting - do not cast overhead, it will tangle. A sideways flick, and then feather the line as it hits the water to allow the shot to precede the float. - baiting - it's all about getting the fish competing. I feed constantly. Sometimes before, during and at the end of the trot. If they are competing, the chub get interested. If after chub, I like to bait for half an hour before casting out. - wading - makes life easier if possible. You can trot directly downstream. - holding back - remember, the surface of a river travels faster than deeper down. If you let it trot unhindered, you will catch but sometimes not as many. Hold bak the float to let the bait lift, and then let it flow again. Often the bite comes then. - hooks - spade end offers a more natural presentation than eyed - use line floatant if possible, a floating line is key unless you have a strong downstream wind, then sinking is ok. Check out this www.daveharrellangling.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/1.-RIG-DIAGRAMS-FOR-DH-RUNNING-LINE-FLOATS.pdfAnd this www.daveharrellangling.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/2.-TIPS-FOR-RIVER-SUCCESS.pdfdrennantackle.com/articles/10_IYCF_Elt.pdfdrennantackle.com/articles/stickfloats.pdf
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2014 19:07:18 GMT
Absolutely no point in plumbing. You soon realise the depth after trotting through a dozen times and adjusting till the float catches. Dead easy to adjust with it being float rubbers
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Post by Mick on Jun 20, 2014 19:08:37 GMT
Cheat you copied and pasted that Jim lol
Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2014 19:09:54 GMT
Lol. It would have taken less time
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2014 19:12:58 GMT
Forgot to add, if it's real far bank stuff, and a fair chuck, forget the stick or big stick and use a waggler
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Post by Stevie on Jun 20, 2014 19:15:58 GMT
jim you are the master so your names change to the stickman from now on lol
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2014 19:16:31 GMT
I'm not! It's all stuff I've read lol.
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Post by ronny on Jun 20, 2014 19:19:05 GMT
Thanks jim, bang on that..
Regarding plumbing, would u not do it once to get a rough idea of the depth if you have never fished the swim before?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2014 19:22:40 GMT
You can do but honest, I wouldn't bother! Trot it through, unbaited, and just add depth until you are there. You'll also quickly learn where it starts to shallow, where deeper parts are etc. if the depth varies on a trot, you will know where to hold back float to get past the shallower bits. Where it's stars to shelf is a good place to catch
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Post by Mick on Jun 20, 2014 19:36:37 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2014 19:48:01 GMT
Lol.
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Post by ronny on Jun 20, 2014 20:08:38 GMT
Sorry mick didn't see your post! Just read it and tip advise mate
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